Marc Jacobs’s Name Change
MARC JACOBS is renaming his diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs, ahead of double act Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s first show for the brand next week.
“I’ve always hated that name. I have an idea of what it should be, which I presented to everyone, but I can’t really say it yet,” Jacobs said. “I’m very superstitious that way. I always believe that if I say something before it’s done it won’t really happen.”
Under the watchful eye of Jacobs, Bartley and Hillier will add a new energy to the label, the results of which will be shown on February 11. Their first collection for the brand will feature clothes that the designers themselves really want to wear.
“It’s about being playful again, even a little boyish, and having lots of disparate influences,” Bartley explained. “I think that’s the charm of the Marc girl. She doesn’t buy a head-to-toe designer look, so we can’t design in that way. You might have a traditional Japanese hair accessory and put that with a motocross shirt and a beautiful silk dress. Basically, I’m thinking about how we would dress, as opposed to putting a fashion collection together.”
While Bartley and Hillier focus on Marc by Marc Jacobs, Jacobs is concentrating on the mainline. He is rethinking “everything” – from the logo and packaging and shop interiors to reviving product categories that have lost momentum, namely shoes and bags.
“I was letting the design team do the bags, and, unfortunately, without my involvement, you get a lot of merchandisers telling the design team what to do,” Jacobs said. “It got very polluted and diluted and lost its identity, and I think that’s the same with the shoes. Not to blame anybody, but things slipped, and the only one who can change that is me.”
Bernard Arnault – who owns Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton – said this week that he hopes that Jacobs’s forthcoming IPO will rival that of Michael Kors, which broke records in 2011 for becoming the biggest initial public offering in fashion history. However, Jacobs – who admits that he “hates change” – doesn’t “want to follow in someone else’s footsteps”.
“I want the results – I just want them our way,” he told W magazine. “This is the craziest moment of my life, but there’s always a reason why any given moment is the craziest moment in my life. That’s just how it is. Always a fresh hell. Which is fine. So long as it’s a fresh hell, and not the same old hell, you know? The same old hell, now that would just be boring.”