#SuzyPFW: Miu Miu’s Mauve Madness; Moncler’s Canadian Fall
Miu Miu: Eye-Popping “Glamour”
The invitation to the Miu Miu show was a tacky, fluffy, fake-fur mauve. So were the walls. And the palatial stairway. And the pillars.
In fact, the only thing that was not full-on lilac was the colour of the clothes on the runway. Those furry or knitted outfits were an eye-popping mix of orange, pink, lime green, hazard-warning yellow, orange… You name it, and there it was. Sometimes all that was together in checks and stripes, with fluffy boots (orange), hats (turquoise), and giant collars. Oh! And there was a peacock (lilac, of course) printed with a dizzying geometric pattern.
“It’s about the madness of glamour at this moment,” Miuccia said, with a merry laugh.
Was the intentionally perverse designer playing a joke? Only if you did not appreciate one of the funniest, funkiest, and most upbeat collections of a five-week Autumn/Winter 2017 season. And, by the law of crazy fashion shows, when you pulled the presentation apart, each piece was wearable. Some, such as a white dress fluttering with pastel feathers at the hemline, were even beautiful.
Every trend of the moment was out there in this fluffy space: transparent plastic, bold floral prints, plaid checks, enormous jewels, small hats, furry boots. The choice was as big as Miuccia Prada’s unstoppable imagination.
Moncler Gamme Rouge: Fantasy Freeze
Bathed in a golden glow, the digital screen at the Moncler show reverberated with the same golden leaves that were piled in drifts on the runway.
“It was about an Indian summer… A girl, travelling from Paris to Canada, and all the romanticism of being lost in a landscape,” said Giambattista Valli, who sent out a line-up of Canadian Mounties for the finale.
It’s miserable grey early spring outside, but st MONCLAIR Gamme rouge it is a rich autumn
Moncler Gamme Rouge, A/W 2017
The tweed outfits were intriguing, because, removed from the frilly and flowery, they offered more tailoring than the overall show suggested. The same was true of a Chanel-style, cropped tweed jacket or checked sleeves on a plain coat. The large 49-piece collection – a lot to put on the runway – was a mix of plain and fancy, with a print of mountain flowers on a “Snow White” background particularly charming.
The look seemed to be based more on a mythical Swiss Miss than on the icy north of a Canadian winter. In fact, these Moncler customers seem unlikely to make it to the frozen mountains – a chic hot-chocolate spot in the city would be more likely.